Finding the perfect red lipstick can feel like a lifelong quest. If you have a pile of swiped-only-once reds, you’re not alone. Like Goldilocks, you want the red to be just right—not too blue, not too orange. Luckily, there is one tool that can be a huge help in finding the perfect red lipstick: Color theory.
“Color theory in makeup is the use of color combinations to enhance features,” says Allan Avendano, L’Oréal Paris celebrity makeup artist. “There is a color wheel that we reference that shows complementary colors, like eyeshadow that enhances eye color, for example.”
Here’s everything you need to know about using color theory to find the right red lipstick, plus the best shades for summers, springs, autumns, and winters.
What Is Color Theory?
As Dina Scherer, color analysis expert and owner of Modnitsa Styling, previously explained to Byrdie, “Color theory is part art and part science of how colors interact, influence each other, and affect perception. In color analysis, I use these principles to understand how different shades harmonize with a person’s natural features, helping them look their best and feel most confident.”
Color Theory and Beauty
Currently experiencing a renaissance, color theory has gained popularity across the fashion and beauty industries, helping people discover what colors complement them best. “Color theory is popular because it helps create impactful looks when they either complement or contrast one another,” Avendano says. “It’s like a secret trick that helps make it easy to pick the best colors to wear or put on their face. It’s honestly a bit fun to find the best colors that match and contrast that will make everything look just right. Beauty and fashion are about self-expression, and color theory helps to make it easier to make more complementary choices.”
Why Red Lips Have Universal Appeal
Color theory is a foolproof way to help find the best red lipstick, a notoriously tricky quest. “A personal color analysis, which is based on color theory, can help you find the most flattering red lipstick, as once you determine your color season, you can have a better understanding of the types of reds that make your eye color pop, make your complexion appear even, and that don’t wear you,” Scherer says.
After all, nothing can transform your look or mood quite like a simple swipe of red lipstick. “Red lips tend to make someone’s outfit feel more complete, especially when coordinated with something else red,” Scherer says. “Red lips can serve as a boost of confidence, as it is a very strong color that is both powerful and passionate. Red lips tend to make one’s teeth appear brighter, and red is an adventurous color, so having a bold red lip typically will elicit many compliments on one’s appearance.”
With the old Hollywood aesthetic still going strong, red lips are an easy way to achieve that look. “Red lips have universal appeal because they look rich, powerful, and seductive and evoke old Hollywood glamour,” says Rose-Marie Swift, founder of RMS Beauty and makeup artist.
The Best Red Lipstick for Your Season
Winter
@selenagomez / instagram
The best reds for Winters are cooler, bright reds, according to Scherer. “Winter is the moment for a pop—think classic siren red. You can go two ways: a blue-based red (very fashion-forward, think YSL) or a true classic red with a whisper of orange,” Swift says. “Blue-reds flatter very pale cool complexions and deeper skin beautifully; the soft-orange classic reads warmer on most undertones.”
Spring
Getty Images
“Spring wants a salmon pink-hued red—keep it fresh and light,” Swift says. “Think more of a pinch, not bubble gum. A sheer, balmy pink-red wakes the whole face up without shouting.” Scherer adds that Spring reds are bright and warm, so lipsticks with a hint of orange or a more true red are also complementary.
Summer
Hourglass
“Summers tend to have less contrast, so a true, bright red might be overwhelming for their complexions,” Scherer says. Instead, she recommends a cool, berry red with pinkish-red tones. “It’s less drama but still enough pigment to create a bold statement.”
Additionally, Avendano recommends cherry tones. “For cool undertones (pink, blue, or purple tones), cool-toned reds that won’t overpower your complexion are the way to go,” he says.
Autumn
Merit
“Fall is the earthy-red moment: red with a hint of brown, a soft terracotta,” Swift says. “It looks gorgeous with the fallen leaves color palette around you. That tiny brown note grounds the red and makes it incredibly wearable.”
Scherer adds, “Autumns have a deeper/softer, richer warm complexion, so something with more depth and texture is a good match.”
