B Side
Traditionally, the B side refers to the flip side of a record. The A side contains the more front-facing hits—the singles—but on the B side, you can get in a bit deeper with the artist. And quite honestly, there’s no better metaphor we can think of for the creative team behind a beauty look. They pull the references, scour the archives, and paint the picture you see on the big screen. The celebrity, model, or actor is the single with the most airtime. But the glam team? They’re the producers, conductors, friends, and family members. For lack of a less ubiquitous phrase, they make it work.
It has always been our mission to shine a light on the BTS of beauty, as the artistry of hair and makeup is an intricate, detailed exploration that lies at the cross section of aesthetics and culture. Why? Because the origin of a look is just as important as the look itself. The backstory deserves its hard-earned glory.
This time around, we’re introducing you to hairstylist Mark Townsend and makeup artist Kate Lee, who, to be quite honest, need absolutely no introduction. They are legends, and we’ve long admired their work on and off set. Together, they’re the masterminds behind the beauty looks for Byrdie’s Holiday Issue featuring Dakota Fanning. Below, join us in taking a peek behind the curtain.
Hairstylist Mark Townsend
On the inspiration for Dakota’s hair looks…
“For each look, we wanted a juxtaposition of smooth and lived-in texture. For her updo, I waved the hairs around the face, but kept the updo very shiny and polished. Similarly, with the braided ponytail, I kept the hair in the braid very clean and polished, but the hair on top and around the face had loose waves and texture. For our last look, I crimped her hair with my GHD Triple Barrel Waver, pulled the top section of hair back, and kept it smooth with no flyaways, but the hair that remained down had a beachy texture.”
On working with Dakota…
“Working with Dakota is a dream! She likes and respects the creative process and is open to trying new things and taking risks. Working with her involves lots of laughs and great conversation while she’s in the chair.”
On his early years and starting his career in beauty…
“I like to joke that I was born a hairdresser because some of my earliest and fondest memories are of sitting on the kitchen counter, watching my mom, aunt, and grandmother do each other’s hair, including color, perms, and cuts. I would try to re-create those hairstyles and cuts on my sister’s Barbies, which led to many a fight.
“I grew up in Lakeland, Florida, and being a gay kid in a small town was not always the easiest. But my aha moment was when I decided to leave college to attend cosmetology school and assist in a local salon. I knew I was on the right path as soon as I picked up a pair of cutting shears. It brought so much joy to my life!
“I took a risk a year later and moved to New York City, where I became an assistant at the Oribe salon. That is when my life really changed. Living in the very place where many trends got started was fascinating and inspiring! This was the ’90s, and every supermodel came into that salon. The thrill that I got to shampoo their hair and help with a blow-dry was incredible.”
On his career highlights…
“I am proud to say that I’ve had many career highlights so far! I got to experience fashion shows in the ’90s (there will never be another time quite like that!), and I’ve had the privilege of traveling to the most beautiful and exotic destinations on Earth, and I got to work on photo shoots with the top publications in the world. But what I remember most is the incredible people I’ve met along the way; smart, funny, creative, diverse, and even some not-so-nice people have given me some memories that I will cherish and many secrets I will take to my grave.”
On what beauty means to him and how it’s empowered him throughout his life…
“Beauty is everywhere if you’re open to it, and beauty inspires beauty. I find beauty in architecture and in flowers, and I see how that beauty inspires me when I’m creating an updo for a client. Or how a beautiful piece of art will inspire how I create waves in a client’s hair. Beauty is emotional and very personal. For instance, I cannot smell Chanel No. 5 without thinking of hugging my grandmother.
“My absolute favorite part of my job is the moment a client sees herself in the mirror and says, ‘I love it’ after I’ve cut or styled her hair. If I can make a person feel beautiful or more confident, then I have done my job properly, and that is very empowering to me.”
On his mentors and icons…
“The list of beauty icons is very long. I’m so inspired by the beauties of different eras, especially the ’40s, ’70s, and ’90s. From Marlene Dietrich to Cher and [Brigitte] Bardot to Madonna and Christy Turlington.
“I am the stylist I am today because of my mentors, and I had some great ones! Oribe opened my eyes to a whole new world of beauty and fashion. I assisted Danilo, who really showed me how to approach hair and how to master it. While working with him, I learned the world of editorial and worked on insanely creative photo shoots and commercials. Danilo is really an artist—a sculptor—and hair is the medium. I saw him create some truly epic hairstyles, but what was so special is how he took the time to show me his process and teach me techniques. Many of those tricks and techniques I still use today.
“It was Sally Hershberger who took me under her wing and introduced me to the intense world of celebrity styling. This was when actors started covering magazines and fashion campaigns. Sally took me along on that wild ride. The education she gave me was incredible. Sally is like a surgeon with her precision cutting and styling.”
Advice for those coming up in the industry…
“Learn your craft and overeducate yourself. Being a hairstylist these days is a whole different landscape, so while learning about hair, you also should learn about lighting and how to market yourself.”
Makeup Artist Kate Lee
On working with Dakota…
“Dakota is a treat. Ever the professional and always ready for great conversation and fun. She has the most beautiful skin, and I love working with her.”
On her early years and starting her career in beauty…
“I grew up in the north of England, but I became an adult once I moved to London at 18. My early years were spent studying, honing my skills, working for magazines, and assisting on the collections.
“There wasn’t a specific aha moment; it was just something I always felt compelled to do. I trained as an aesthetician first, [and] then went on to fashion school. I felt that education was very important, even though there weren’t many options in further education for beauty and makeup at that time.”
On her career highlights…
“There’s no specific highlight. I graduated in 1994, and there are too many to count, but I will say that I love my job and am grateful for every extraordinary experience it affords me.”
On what beauty means to her and how it’s empowered her throughout her life…
“Beauty is a state of mind and [is] by no means dependent on applying makeup. The thing I love most about makeup in relation to empowerment is that it doesn’t take much time or effort, but it can improve the way a person feels almost instantly.”
On her mentors and icons…
“My icons are many! I am constantly inspired by people’s approach to beauty and adornment. My mentor, Val Garland, and I spent years working together, and the knowledge I gained from her still guides me today. She remains the person I seek advice from whenever I face professional decisions.”
Advice for those coming up in the industry…
“Choosing a profession that truly ignites your passion is crucial for finding happiness in life. Your love for your chosen field will be tested, and you may question whether you’re making the right choice. However, persistence often separates those who pursue their dreams from those who abandon them. Keep going!”
